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laundering is recommended for all of our linens, except where dry cleaning
is indicated (on piqué and matelassé blanket covers, wool and mohair
blankets). We strongly recommend that you a) pre-wash all linens before use,
and b) wash linens separately from anything else, particularly items that
contain any polyester. Polyester "pills," and will shed its pilling on
natural fibers, diminishing the smoothness and softness of the fabric. In
addition, garments with buttons or zippers can damage more delicate linens
in the wash. Select a gentle laundry detergent. Products with bluing agents
or whiteners are not recommended on colored linens, as they may
progressively fade the colors. Consider the longstanding French tradition to
insure the longevity of bedding: rotate your sheets, with a set in the
closet, a set on the bed, and a set in the wash. This insures that no one
set receives more wear than another.
A Word of
Caution: certain skin and hair products that contain oxidizing agents
(e.g., lotions used for acne) may cause discoloration of sheets,
particularly blue linens. If you use such personal products, cover your
pillow with a white pillow case or white towel.
Shrinkage
Shrinkage will occur with all linens made of natural fibers, the amount of
shrinkage ranging from 4 to 10 percent, depending on the fibers used. The
sizing of our products allows for expected shrinkage. Linens washed in hot
water or dried at hot temperatures will shrink excessively. Pre-shrunk
items, such as Jacquard-woven table linens or honeycomb towels, normally
shrink 3 percent or less. Generally, very large pieces of fabric or very
high thread count linens are not pre-shrunk.
Washing
bedding
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Linens
should be separated into light or dark colors. Avoid overloading the
machine to prevent breaking long fibers like those in Egyptian cotton.
Whether cotton, pure linen, or a cotton/linen blend, bedding should be
washed in warm water, using a gentle laundering agent, with a final cold
rinse. If pre-soaking is necessary, it should be in cold water. |
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Allow your
washing machine to fill up and begin agitating before you add detergent
or bleach. Unless your linens are extremely soiled, use half the
commercial detergent recommended; this will reduce damage to fibers and
clean your linens just as well. |
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Remove
washed bedding promptly from the machine; this helps reduce wrinkling.
Shaking damp linens out before drying (at low heat) will also reduce
wrinkles and quicken the drying time. |
Washing
bath linens
Terry Towels: Washing terry towels before use begins the "breaking in"
process, making them softer and more absorbent. Several washings are
required for 100% cotton terry towels to achieve their maximum absorbency,
softness and fluff.
Honeycomb
Towels: These lightweight, waffle weave towels are loosely woven for
absorbency, dry very quickly, and have been pre-shrunk. White honeycomb
items with colored borders may be bleached safely to keep their brightness.
Launder
towels in warm water and a gentle detergent. It is particularly important
with towels that you not use fabric softener, since it decreases the
absorbency of the towel.
Washing
table linens
Our Jacquard-woven table linens are carefree: they’re pre-shrunk, with an
easy-care finish, and can be bleached without affecting the brightness of
the color. Dry cleaning is not recommended; laundering "relaxes" the fibers,
which actually enhances the intricate, Jacquard-woven patterns.
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Table
linens should be washed in warm water and gentle detergent, with a final
cold rinse. Bleach may be used, which brightens the linens. Fabric
softeners are not recommended, since they decrease absorbency and impart
a fragrance that can be disconcerting. |
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Remove
table linens promptly from the wash, and shake out to help minimize
wrinkles before drying. |
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Please
note: Beautiful as they are, tea towels are meant to be used hard—in the
kitchen, great for drying dishes and crystal, but also ideal for wiping up
spills. Bleach can be used to maintain their elegant appearance. |
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Universal
Laundering Symbols These are the symbols you will find on the sewn-in
labels of each item. Please refer to the label before laundering.
The 2 indicates a normal wash cycle; the 60
means the item should be washed at 60 degrees C, or 140 degrees F.
The 6 indicates a gentle cycle at 40 degrees C or 104 degrees F.
The triangle with X means no chlorine bleach. Without the X, bleach may
be used.
The
iron indicates that item may be pressed.
Three dots indicates a very hot iron—210 degrees C, 410 degrees F. Two
dots indicates a hot iron—160 degrees C, 320 degrees F. One dot
indicates a warm iron for touch ups—120 degrees C, 248 F.
The encircled P means all dry cleaning solvents may be used.
Indicates article may be line dried.
Indicates
article may be machine dried at moderate heat.
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How to Dry
Line drying linens is ideal, leaving linens nearly wrinkle-free and smelling
fresh, but using your dryer with the proper settings will bring about
satisfactory results, leaving linens relatively wrinkle-free and soft.
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Do not
over-dry your linens by using a dryer setting that’s too hot. Set your dryer
on permanent press, which has a cool down cycle at the end that helps reduce
wrinkles. Most dryers have an air cycle that simply air-tumbles its contents
without any heat. This is also a good method for drying linens. |
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Remove your
linens promptly to reduce wrinkling. Smooth them out, finger pressing
details like flanges on pillow shams, borders on flat sheets, edges of
tablecloths or napkins. Then fold carefully. |
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How to Iron
Washing and drying your linens properly will eliminate many wrinkles. But fine
linens made of natural fibers do wrinkle, particularly when new. As they become
older and softer, you will find that they wrinkle less.
For both
bedding and table linens, using a good steam iron will make ironing easier.
Avoid using spray starch, which has a tendency to adhere to the surface of the
iron, and may also attract silverfish to the stored linens. If you wish to iron
your linens, the following guidelines are recommended.
Bedding
Iron your bed linens while they are still damp. If the piece is embroidered,
ironing on the reverse side will prevent damage to the embroidery. Refer to the
sewn-in label with the universal symbols for the appropriate setting for your
iron. (The symbol chart is included at the end of this section.
Table linens
Table linens should be ironed while damp. Interestingly, ironing Jacquard-woven
table linens will enhance the pattern by increasing the three-dimensional
appearance inherent in the Jacquard-woven technique.
Storing
Linens
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If you plan on
storing your linens, iron them before you store them. |
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Store linens
flat; if the shelves are wooden, line them with tissue paper; some woods,
such as cedar, contain oils that can damage linens. |
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Make certain
that linens are not exposed to direct sunlight or moonlight to avoid color
fading. |
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Do not leave
table linens on your table where they may be exposed to direct sunlight over
an extended period of time. |
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Care of Down
Products
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Always use a
duvet cover to protect your duvet and keep it clean. Use pillow protectors
on down pillows, and wash the protectors regularly. A mattress protector
over a featherbed is strongly recommended. |
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Duvets,
pillows and featherbeds should be fluffed daily to maintain the loft and
fullness of the down. |
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If soiled or
stained, duvets and pillows can be spot cleaned with a damp cloth and mild
soap. |
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If featherbeds
or silk duvets become soiled, dry clean only. |
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For cleaning
down duvets and pillows, we recommend laundering rather than dry cleaning.
Laundering rejuvenates the lofting quality of down, making duvets and
pillows full, fluffier, and fresh smelling. |
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You may wash
down items in a front loading, extra capacity washer (the kind used by
professional laundries) using a mild detergent in warm water. Do not use top
loading washing machines or the agitation may damage the delicate cotton
cover. Some modest shrinkage or wrinkling may result from washing, but will
not be visible once the duvet is in a duvet cover. |
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Down duvets
and pillow love drying in the sun. Spread them out on a sheet on the grass
or deck, and shake them vigorously from time to time while drying. Or you
may tumble dry in a dryer set on medium heat. Remove every hour and fluff.
Placing a few tennis balls in the dryer will facilitate the drying. Be
certain your down duvets and pillows are thoroughly dry before returning to
the bed or storage. Always store in cotton bags, never in plastic |
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Stain
Removal
BERRIES AND
FRUIT: If the stain is still wet, sprinkle with salt and gentle liquid soap.
Let sit for a couple of hours, and rinse well. If the stain is dry, a
solution of borax (one part borax to six parts water) may remove the stain.
Soak until it has disappeared.
BLOOD:
Attend to bloodstains immediately. Rinse well in cold water (never hot—it
will permanently set the stain), then try one of the following: a) sprinkle
the stain with unflavored meat tenderizer; or b) blot on hydrogen peroxide
with a damp cloth, allow to bubble, then wipe with a fresh cloth. Repeat if
necessary. For dried bloodstain: soak overnight in cold water and two cups
of salt. Wash as usual.
BUTTER OR
MARGARINE: Mix one teaspoon of detergent with warm water. Apply to spot and
blot. You may need to repeat a few times. Or mix one part white vinegar and
two parts water. Saturate the stain and blot until dry. Wash as usual.
CANDLE WAX
ON TABLE LINENS: Gently peel away the wax that can easily be removed with
your fingernail. If the wax is soft, harden with an ice cube. Place the item
between two sheets of brown paper, and press with a warm iron; the remaining
wax will be absorbed by the paper. If the wax is colored, wash with a
bleaching agent.
COFFEE OR
TEA: Apply a borax solution (1 part borax to six parts water) directly to
the stain, then wash in warm, soapy water.
GREASE: Do
not allow grease stains to set! Sprinkle fresh grease stains with baking
soda or cornstarch and leave for a couple of hours until the powder gets
thick. Scrape away and repeat the process. Brush off the powder and launder
as usual.
GRASS (on
tablecloths): Mix one-third cup vinegar and two-thirds cup water. Apply to
stain and blot. Or pre-soak in hydrogen peroxide and launder as usual.
LIPSTICK:
Scrape off as much as you can with a dull knife. Use a pre-wash spray and
rub with a clean white towel. Wash as usual.
MILDEW:
Apply white vinegar and lemon juice to kill the mildew. Let the item sit in
the sun for a few hours. Wash as usual, but separately.
SCORCH
MARKS: Treat the same way as mildew, but drying in the sun is not necessary.
WINE: White
wine is easily removed with normal laundering. Red wine stains can be
handled two ways: a) rub salt on the stain, and soak in cold water; if the
stain is stubborn, rub the salt into it to remove; or b) saturate the stain
with club soda until it disappears. |
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